The reason for the manual transmission overhaul is the free play the outgoing shaft of the manual transmission.

During driving the car is vibrating because of this. We can drive the car with this problem but it could go from bad to worse. And of course it is FUN to do such a thing. If……everything goes well. Edit: The prise bearing inside the flywheel, was worn out. This made the clutch engage off centre now and then. This explains the inconsistent vibration after usig the clutch.

The first step is to take away the console. Below the console is a rubber boot which has to be removed. In my case this is desired, since I have e new woodgrain insert for the console. The current inlay doesn’t reveal it used to be wood……

Next step: remove the ( heavy) shifting knob and the reverse lock + spring. Then 4 phillips screws which retain the console. Here is a picture with the console removed and the rubber boot is still attached.

Unscrew the rubber boot and go to the next topic.

Now the exhaust have to be removed to give space for lowering the transmission. My pit isn’t that long so the rear muffers were dismounted first and then the car had to be turned around on the pit. Bwoaahhhaha what a sound with open pipes!!! a bit too much for confort, but still it was a lot of fun. Must find a way to include audio on the webpage haha.The rear mufflers were removed and this picture I’ve taken to remember how the muffler was attached to the crossmember.

To enscrew the exhaust from the manifold was a bit tricky. The bolts were rusty so penetrating oil was very usefull. To ease the removal of the nut along the way I’ve used copper based grase. The procedure to loosen the bolts is to loosen it a bit, the tighten it again, loosen it a bit, tighten it again. Slowly the bolt nut is coming off. It is better to take extra time here than to take extra time to remove the whole exhaust manifold and to put in some new threaded fittings. This how it looks like without the pipes attached:

As you can see one pipe is still there, but I think it will give no trouble. The nex thing is to disconnect the shifting levers (3 in total):

Now the driveshaft can be removed bij taking off the 4 bolts. Then push the yoke inwards the transmission and lover the driveshaft.

If you hobby is finding the needles of the needle bearing, then dont tape the bearing cap. Last time when I did this I had to find some needles. Now it is prevented.

Now it is time to remove the bolts that attach the transmission rear mounting to the bracket:

Now put a wooden plate under the oil pan and jack up the engine until the transmission has cleared from the mounting bracket.

Now the exhaust yoke and the rubber transmission mount can be removed.

This is the result:

The next thing is to remove the shift lever assembly. This was realy a pain in the ass!! The damned thing didn’t do what I wanted. I even destroyed the shift console plate mounting with it, while I was attempting to remove the thing.

The solution was an other hydraulic jack, to jack up the transmission. But this still wasn’t enough.

After jacking up the engine and the transmission with an extra hydraulic jack (red)I succeeded to take the damn assembly out. This was a moment of joy. Pfff.

The result can be seen in the next photo:

IF you want to teke your key out of the lock, the manual transmission has to be in its reverse. The release is activated by a bowden cable and this is still attached to the transmission. So take it apart!

After removing the 4 bolts the transmission could be retracted by rotatring the transmission clockwise (according to mr. Chilton) then the transmission came loose. As you can see I’m wearing gloves becaue of the dirt and I have to take pictures and it is wintertime without heating in the garage, brrr.

I call this picture the black hole. There isn’t anay transmission where it should be. I’ve succeeded to do all the work by myself, but when reassembling I need some extra humanpower. Al least 2 HP.
The thermal insulation has been damaged. After taking it of it will be repaired with alluminuim tape and then it is as good as new.

Now the next step will be the transmission overhaul with a transmission revission kit. But For this a new topic will be created.

Now the transmission is gone I decided to take away the cluch housing and to inspect its condition. When I bought the car the reseller told me it has a new clutch plate. Since the car is vibrationg when the rpm is changing, I’ll check the clutch allingnment. This will be a new topic as well.

Here is the endresult:

It has 32 years of oil and road dirt in it. The advantage is that the gearbox is getting warm and the oil is evaporating, leaving a nice cooked road dirt behind. This is ‘easily’ taken off by a putty knife and a steel brush.